Automatic Litterbox Central

I have two Cat Genie 60's and one of the processors will not move the Genie Arm. I took the whole unit apart to make sure there wasn't something 'blocking' the movement and nothing, so I switched the units and it won't move either of the arms. The arm is the only function which doesn't work - otherwise it runs through the entire cleaning process and leaves a sopping mess of granules...Help! Does anyone know of a way to fix this? I have yet to call Genie for help...

Thanks!

You moved the arm by hand when you had the PU off and it moved freely?

Yes, it moved freely when I removed the processor. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a blown motor or motor control portion of the PU. Does it make any noise like it's trying to go (which you probably can't hear over the other Genie noises). I think you'd have to send it back to Petnovations for repair, if they will still do that for a 60.

The mild steel pin securing the gear wheel to the arm rod is busted.

Still2cats2many wrote:The mild steel pin securing the gear wheel to the arm rod is busted.

I guess....I kind of thought from my question that the OP was saying that when it "moved freely" that the arm was moving...or are you saying that under load it slips?

Kauilani: When you said it moved freely, were you spinning the vertical gear on the left side (with the arm on the right) and was the arm moving when you did that?

It does make the sounds like it's trying to move - but nothing. The main problem is I bought the genies second-hand therefore the Warranties are void. I will probably just end up buying another unit...

Setec Astronomy wrote:

Still2cats2many wrote:The mild steel pin securing the gear wheel to the arm rod is busted.

I guess....I kind of thought from my question that the OP was saying that when it "moved freely" that the arm was moving...or are you saying that under load it slips?

Kauilani: When you said it moved freely, were you spinning the vertical gear on the left side (with the arm on the right) and was the arm moving when you did that?

Yes, when I moved it manually (using the gear) it moved just fine. The pin is not broken, although I will be replacing it if I can get the PU fixed...since it's the "old" version. It doesn't move at all with the PU...hope that clarifies.

I seem to recall reading that they won't repair the 60's now and make you upgrade to a 120. There was also some implication that even on a 120, after warranty, you won't be able to get it repaired, etc., which seems insane. I would think that there would/should be some PU exchange program or an ability to buy a spare PU (maybe refurbed) that you can use while yours is getting repaired.

This kind of thing is standard in other industries with high-value replacement parts. Your out-of-warranty device fails...you normally have 3 options. 1) buy a new replacement PU (say $250) 2) send yours back for repair and wait several weeks (might be done as a time/materials or flat charge) 3) trade in yours for a refurb one for a flat fee that has some limited warranty, say 30 or 60 days (this would be done the way the warranty replacement is now; they send you a replacement, you send your broken one back after).

Since it's not under warranty, you can take it apart and see if anything looks burnt or stuck.

You'll need a 8" Philips #2 screwdriver...

Another user recently posted the exact same issue. He said he took the processor board apart and replaced the resistor labeled C14. I believe he said that the arm started to move after that but it burnt up again.

I would check the large, yellow capacitor labeled C13 to make sure it isn't shorted, or open.

If the capacitor is bad, I believe the manufacturer's part number is MPXQP33K. You should be able to get it from Mouser Electronics for $1.59; but they are currently out of stock. Next estimated delivery date is 3/29/10.

Also, the coil on the motor may be shorted. The motor appears to be a standard 120V, reversable AC motor. You should be able to check and see if it is shorted by going accross pins 1 & 2 (Blue & Red); and then pins 2 & 3 (Red & Black) on the motor's wire leads with an ohm-meter. If either side has 0 ohms resistance, it is shorted.

I don't see a part number on the motor, but I havn't removed it from the housing to look throughly.

Please note that if the motor's coils are shorted, it may also cause the capacitor to short (or open-circuit), then causing the resistor to burn up.

Hope this helps.

You guys are making an awful lot of presumtions about the OP and his/her desire to to board-level repair and/or source motors, etc.

Setec Astronomy wrote:You guys are making an awful lot of presumtions about the OP and his/her desire to to board-level repair and/or source motors, etc.

Sorry...

OP...you need to buy a new Cat Genie and keep Petnovations in business!

Setec Astronomy wrote:You guys are making an awful lot of presumtions about the OP and his/her desire to to board-level repair and/or source motors, etc.

I wasn't making any assumptions about OP's ability to do board level repair. Message boards are for the benefit of all and I was simply posting a possible repair for a problem I've seen on here more than once; with no resolution.

Hey, thanks for the snarky comebacks. You know, message boards ARE "for the benefit of all", so since they are, you need to recognize that not all members are going to have the same inclinations, budgets, or level of repair skill. So for you, I hope I haven't dumbed down your forum too much by trying to keep it simple for the newb OP, while I hope the OP is not overwhelmed or discouraged by the idea of soldering caps on the board.